I'll never forget the moment I saw my first wild elephant. Standing in an open-top jeep in Ghana's Mole National Park, watching a herd of elephants amble past just meters away, I understood why people become addicted to safari experiences. This is the story of my first African wildlife adventure.
Arriving at Mole
The journey to Mole National Park is an adventure in itself. From Tamale, Ghana's northern capital, it's about three hours of increasingly rural roads until suddenly, the savanna opens up before you. The Mole Motel, perched on a cliff overlooking the park, offers one of Africa's most underrated views.Day One: The Walking Safari
Unlike East African parks where you stay in vehicles, Mole offers something unique – walking safaris. Armed ranger guides lead small groups through the bush on foot, an experience that feels both exhilarating and humbling.Our guide, Emmanuel, had worked in the park for over 20 years. He could identify animals by their tracks, knew which trees elephants preferred, and sensed changes in wildlife behavior before we saw anything.
The First Encounter
About an hour into our walk, Emmanuel stopped suddenly, holding up his hand. Through the grass, we spotted them – a family of warthogs drinking at a waterhole. We watched in silence as they went about their morning routine, completely unbothered by our presence.The Elephant Encounter
Later that morning came the moment I'd been dreaming about. We heard them before we saw them – the sound of branches breaking and gentle rumbles of communication. Then, emerging from the trees, came a family of elephants.Emmanuel guided us to a safe distance as we watched a mother and her calf forage for food. The baby, probably less than a year old, stayed close to its mother's side, occasionally reaching up with its tiny trunk.
Time seemed to stop. We stood there for nearly an hour, watching these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. It was profoundly different from any zoo experience – this was their home, and we were the visitors.
The Wildlife of Mole
Over my three days in the park, I encountered:
I didn't see any of the park's elusive predators – leopards and hyenas are present but rarely spotted. Emmanuel assured me this just meant I had a reason to return.
Sunset at the Watering Hole
The Mole Motel sits above a natural watering hole, and every evening presents a spectacle. As the sun began to set, elephants, warthogs, and various antelope gathered to drink. We sat on the viewing terrace, cold drinks in hand, watching nature's evening routine unfold.A massive bull elephant emerged from the forest, his tusks gleaming in the golden light. He drank deeply, sprayed water over his back, and then slowly made his way back into the trees. It was National Geographic come to life.
Practical Tips for Mole
Getting There
Best Time to Visit
What to Bring
Where to Stay
The Mole Motel is the only accommodation inside the park. It's basic but clean, and the location is unbeatable. Book ahead during peak season.Reflections
My first African safari exceeded every expectation. Mole National Park may not have the fame of Serengeti or Kruger, but that's part of its charm. Without the crowds, you can have genuine wilderness experiences at a fraction of the cost.But more than the wildlife, what I'll remember is the feeling of being immersed in nature in a way that's increasingly rare in our modern world. Walking through the African bush, following elephant tracks, listening to Emmanuel share his knowledge – these experiences reconnected me to something fundamental about our place in the natural world.
I've already booked my return trip.