West Africa is a powerhouse of fashion creativity, where ancient textile traditions meet contemporary design innovation. From the bold patterns of Ankara to the intricate weaving of Kente, fashion here is more than clothing—it's a language of culture, identity, and artistic expression.
Traditional Textiles
Kente Cloth (Ghana/Côte d'Ivoire)
The "cloth of kings" originated with the Akan people and remains Ghana's most celebrated textile.
History and Significance
Originally worn only by royalty and spiritual leaders
Each pattern has a specific name and meaning
Colors carry symbolic significance:
- Gold: Royalty, wealth, high status
- Green: Renewal, growth, spiritual energy
- Blue: Peace, harmony, love
- Red: Political passion, bloodshed, sacrifice
How It's Made
Hand-woven on traditional looms
Strips are sewn together to create larger cloths
A single cloth can take weeks to complete
Bonwire village is the Kente capital of Ghana
How to Wear Kente
Men: Draped over one shoulder, toga-style
Women: As a wrapper skirt with matching top
Modern: Incorporated into Western styles
Ankara/African Print (Pan-African)
The bold, colorful wax prints known as Ankara have become synonymous with African fashion worldwide.
Origins
Inspired by Indonesian batik
Developed by Dutch manufacturers for African markets
Now produced primarily in West Africa
Each print has a name and story
Popular Uses
Traditional garments
Contemporary fashion
Home décor
Accessories
Adire (Nigeria)
Traditional Yoruba tie-dye and resist-dyeing technique.
Types
Adire Oniko: Tied patterns
Adire Eleko: Cassava paste resist
Adire Alabere: Stitched patterns
Modern Revival
Contemporary designers are reinventing Adire for global fashion markets.
Aso Oke (Nigeria)
Hand-woven fabric traditionally used for special occasions.
Characteristics
Woven in narrow strips on upright looms
Features intricate patterns and metallic threads
Three main types: Etu (dark blue), Sanyan (beige), Alaari (red)
Uses
Wedding ceremonies (Aso Ebi)
Traditional festivals
Cultural celebrations
Bogolan/Mud Cloth (Mali/Burkina Faso)
Ancient textile tradition using fermented mud to create patterns.
Process
Cotton cloth soaked in tree leaves
Designs painted with fermented mud
Chemical reaction creates permanent patterns
Traditionally worn by hunters for camouflage and protection
Contemporary African Fashion
Rising Designers
Orange Culture (Nigeria)
Founded by Adebayo Oke-Lawal
Known for gender-fluid designs
Showcased at international fashion weeks
Christie Brown (Ghana)
Founded by Aisha Ayensu
Celebrates African femininity
Worn by celebrities worldwide
Lisa Folawiyo (Nigeria)
Pioneered luxury Ankara
Combined traditional prints with crystal embellishments
International stockists include Selfridges
Studio 189 (Ghana)
Co-founded by Rosario Dawson
Focus on ethical fashion and artisan employment
Preserves traditional techniques
Fashion Weeks
Lagos Fashion Week
Africa's largest fashion event
Showcases continental designers
Attracts international press and buyers
Accra Fashion Week
Growing platform for Ghanaian designers
Focus on sustainable fashion
Emerging designer showcases
Arise Fashion Week (Lagos)
Brings international designers to Africa
Celebrity attendance
Major industry event
Shopping for African Fashion
Where to Shop
Accra, Ghana
Makola Market: Traditional fabrics, wholesale prices
Osu Oxford Street: Contemporary boutiques
Artists Alliance Gallery: Designer pieces
Global Mamas: Ethical, fair-trade fashion
Lagos, Nigeria
Lekki Art Market: Affordable fashions
Alara: Luxury designer concept store
Balogun Market: Massive fabric market
Terra Kulture: Cultural center with boutique
Lomé, Togo
Grand Marché: Famous for Nana Benz textiles
Village Artisanal: Crafts and clothing
Cotonou, Benin
Dantokpa Market: West Africa's largest market
Artisanal centers: Quality crafts
Tips for Buying
Fabric Shopping
Know standard fabric lengths (6 yards typical for full outfit)
Examine quality carefully
Negotiate prices (expect 20-40% discount)
Check for color fastness
Buy extra for alterations
Getting Clothes Made
Bring inspiration photos
Allow 3-7 days for tailoring
Have measurements taken professionally
Request a fitting before final completion
Build relationship with tailor for future orders
Fashion Experiences
Kente Weaving Villages
Bonwire, Ghana
Traditional Kente heartland
Watch master weavers at work
Purchase directly from creators
Learn about symbolism and history
Adanwomase, Ghana
Another major Kente center
Less touristy than Bonwire
Authentic experience
Adire Workshops
Abeokuta, Nigeria
Traditional Adire center
Hands-on dyeing workshops
Visit historic Itoku Market
Fashion Tours
Several operators offer fashion-focused tours including:
Market tours with local experts
Designer studio visits
Tailoring experiences
Fashion history walks
Wearing African Fashion
Occasions and Etiquette
Everyday Wear
Casual Ankara styles widely worn
Mix traditional and Western pieces
Express your personal style
Formal Events
Aso Ebi (matching family fabrics) for weddings
Kente for special celebrations
Traditional styles show respect
Religious Settings
Modest coverage important
Head coverings for some mosques
Remove shoes where required
Styling Tips
For Women
Start with an Ankara skirt and solid top
Try a head wrap (gele) for special occasions
Layer traditional jewelry
Mix prints confidently
For Men
Agbada for formal occasions
Dashiki for casual elegant
Ankara shirts with Western trousers
Traditional caps complete the look
Bringing Fashion Home
Packing Tips
Roll fabrics to prevent creasing
Pack delicate items in tissue
Keep receipts for customs
Photograph significant purchases
Customs Considerations
Most countries allow personal fashion items
Commercial quantities may face duties
Declare expensive purchases
Know your country's limits
Supporting Ethical Fashion
Fair Trade Options
Global Mamas (Ghana)
Studio 189 (Ghana)
Ethical Fashion Initiative projects
Local cooperatives
Why It Matters
Supports artisan communities
Preserves traditional techniques
Ensures fair wages
Promotes sustainable practices
Experience the vibrant world of West African fashion with Evans Tours! Our cultural tours include market visits, artisan workshops, and fashion experiences.
